Boundary Peak, Nevada, 1998 Trip Reports

Hi John,
I climbed Boundary Peak on 6/16-17 with my wife and a third person. I don't know if you have the scoop on the entrance road; here's what we did. We took a dirt road off of Route 264 between milepost 26 and 27 (closer to 27). This road was suggested by a HPer in a newletter about a year ago. We had standard vehicles (a Skylark and a Metro) and found it passable. When this route comes to the junction with the Trail Canyon road, it is a bit rougher the last 2 miles to trailhead, but the cars survived.
Regarding the climb, since we arrived in the afternoon, we decided to hike in a ways and camp, and get an early start for the summit in the morning. We took crampons and ice axes and used them; however, I think you can do without if you choose your route accordingly. The hike in from trailhead is fraught with cowpaths that pose as the trail. Thus, we became "lost" in the willow thickets several times. Having to traverse small snow patches made trail-finding that much more difficult. We arrived just below Trail Canyon Saddle at 7:30pm and set up camp on some bare ground among the widely spaced pines there. We had a clear, cool night with a slight breeze. I guess the overnight temperature was 25 deg. F. 
The next morning we woke at 4:30am to get an early start while the snow was firm. From this point on, we were almost exclusively on snow. We departed at 6:15am and decided instead of heading to the saddle that we would climb directly up the near peak dubbed "12,201". We ascended a moderately steep snow field, traversing zig-zag, since straight up was too hard on our ankles. The snow was firm but not icy and we managed to get good purchase with our crampons. We skirted the actual summit of 12,201 to the left and then traversed across several large snow fields to a shallow saddle between 12,201 and Boundary Peak. Upon reaching this saddle, we traveled along the ridge all the way to the summit. The snow on top of the ridge was hard and wide enough that there was never any real exposure problems. It was slightly corniced in some places so we stayed away from the very leeward edge. This gave Boundary a real "mountaineering" look. There was a pitch of rock half way between obtaining the summit ridge and the summit itself that we chose to circumnavigate to the right because we had crampons on and it looked as though it might be difficult in a few spots. Our circumnavigation, however, took us along some steep snow fields that could have been a problem if someone slipped. One thing to note is that when you are at the shallow saddle and you look along the ridge, Boundary Peak is to the right and back of a prominence closer and to the left. I had originally thought this closer prominence was Boundary and the other one was Montgomery Peak. As you may know, you cannot see Montgomery almost until you are on the summit of Boundary. Boundary was snow-capped with one small bare area some 20 feet beyond the snow cap. We arrived at the summit around 11am. It was cold at the summit, but not bitter. Also, there was a stiff wind, but standing was not a problem.
The snow along the ridge was still firm when we headed down. After reaching the shallow saddle, we began the traverse to contour around 12,201, but found that it was too soft for safe travel. A slab avalanche that happened right in front of our eyes only 75 yards ahead convinced us that we needed to stick to the summit ridge where the snow was still hard. This is what we did, and headed over 12,201 and down the infamous scree slope which was mostly free of snow. We followed the ridge down to the saddle, then back to camp. We packed up and hiked out that afternoon, arriving at trailhead about 5:30pm.
Regardless of how little or how much snow is still there, I should think your best bet is to head up to the saddle and follow the ridge all the way to the summit.
Good luck and I hope this helps. If you need more info. or clarification, drop me an e-mail.

Dave Fees

John,

Dirt road to reffered to in both Zumwalt's and Holmes books leads to private property and is heavily guarded by watchdogs. We went back into the town of Dyer and inquired as to why this road was blocked off. they said lady is trying to block off the road even though the state of Nevada has repeatedly told her to keep the road avaliable for hikers. When we went back the crazy lady came out and told us to go to a state maintained road a few miles down. We went to the road and could not pass it due to a large amount of mud. I recommend a 4-wheel drive.